Cedar Key feels like the Florida of another era. This cluster of small islands off the Gulf Coast, connected by a short causeway, has no high-rises, no chain restaurants, and no hurry. What it does have: working oyster boats, dive bars with the best clam chowder you’ll ever taste, artists drawn to the light and solitude, and sunsets that paint the sky over a maze of salt marshes and mangrove islands.
About two hours west of Gainesville or northwest of Tampa, Cedar Key makes an easy and rewarding day trip—or a slow weekend if you’re smart enough to stay overnight.
Getting There and Getting Around
From Gainesville, take State Road 24 west straight to Cedar Key. The drive is flat and scenic, passing cattle ranches, pine forests, and wetlands. From Tampa or Orlando, you’ll connect through Chiefland on US 19, then head west on SR 24.
Once you arrive, park your car and forget about it. Cedar Key’s historic downtown is only a few blocks long, clustered around Dock Street and Second Street. Everything—restaurants, galleries, the small city park—is walkable. Rent a bike or a golf cart if you want to explore the residential neighborhoods, but most visitors stick to the waterfront.
What to Do: Oysters, Art, and Island Hopping
Start your day at the Cedar Key Historical Society Museum on Second Street. Housed in an old general store, it’s small but packed with exhibits on the town’s past as a pencil-manufacturing hub (cedar trees were harvested for pencil slats in the 1800s) and its current identity as a commercial fishing village.
Then wander Dock Street. The wooden storefronts hold a rotating mix of artist studios and galleries—painters, photographers, woodworkers. Many of the artists live here year-round, drawn by the slow pace and the ever-changing Gulf light. Stop in, chat, browse. There’s no pressure.
If you’re here between October and June, book a boat tour out to the nearby islands in the Cedar Keys National Wildlife Refuge. These undeveloped islands—Seahorse Key, Atsena Otie Key—are rookeries for pelicans, herons, and egrets. Some tours include snorkeling or shelling stops. Note that Seahorse Key itself is closed to the public during nesting season (March through June), but you can still circle it by boat.
Where to Eat: Clams, Mullet, and Fresh Gulf Oysters
Cedar Key’s dining scene is unpretentious and seafood-forward. Tony’s Seafood Restaurant, right on the waterfront, serves steamed clams, grouper sandwiches, and bowls of clam chowder thick enough to stand a spoon in. The outdoor deck overlooks the boat docks—order a cold beer and watch the pelicans dive.
The Island Room at Cedar Cove Beach & Yacht Club offers a slightly more upscale take, with seared scallops, she-crab soup, and whatever the boats brought in that morning. For a dive bar vibe and some of the best fried mullet in the state, head to Steamers Clam Bar & Grill. Sit at the bar, order the smoked fish dip, and talk to the locals.
Don’t leave without trying the local oysters. Cedar Key has a thriving aquaculture industry, and the farmed clams and oysters here are plump, briny, and served ice-cold on the half shell at nearly every restaurant in town.
Sunset and Slow Time
As the afternoon fades, walk out to the City Park at the end of Second Street. There’s a short fishing pier, a pavilion, and a small beach. This is where everyone gathers at sunset—locals, day-trippers, anglers packing up their gear. The sun drops behind the islands in shades of pink and gold, and the whole town seems to exhale.
If you’ve planned ahead and booked a room at the Island Hotel or one of the small vacation rentals, stay for dinner and a night walk along the quiet streets. If you’re heading back, leave after sunset with a cooler of fresh seafood from the markets on Dock Street.
Cedar Key isn’t flashy. It’s not trying to be. It’s just a small fishing village that happens to serve incredible food, harbor a community of artists, and offer a version of Florida that’s increasingly hard to find.
Want more stories like this delivered to your inbox? Subscribe to the Love Florida newsletter—one short story a day about the real Florida, beyond the brochures.
Tours & experiences in Florida
Powered by Viator. Some links are affiliate links — we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.